Most of the online forum conversations I start about nickels either get no responses or a bunch of defensive talk about how the E-Trac finds plenty of nickels. In less trashy sites, I'm sure picking out nickel signals is a breeze, and if you run wide open and "dig all" I'm sure that works too. I've found some old nickels with the E-Trac, but nowhere near what I did with some of my older machines in the past.

Overall the buzz in the online forums is that while the E-Trac is a silver slayer, it is weak (but not useless) on nickels (and theoretically gold). My impression is that

 
 
"How come I am not digging really deep targets with (my detector).The deepest I dug was about six inches and on the videos they're digging (coins at) like 11". Are there specific settings for digging deep coins...?"

I saw this post on the TreasureNet forum and it got me thinking.  I often read these discussions online about detector depth.  Way back when, depth was the "next big thing" a detector could offer.  The marketing started to be all about depth.  Now here we are and most modern detectors
 
 
It seems to be easy to go accessory crazy with detecting.  I think many times people who are not able to spend a lot of time detecting, instead start buying detecting accessories.  Maybe these detectorists are not having much luck and think a new machine or a new coil is just the thing they need to make better finds.

When it comes to coils, this is a tough one to answer.  Certainly for different types of detecting, having a smaller or larger coil can be an advantage.  But 90% of the time the stock coil will give you good results for coinshooting. 

There are two main types of coils available, concentric and double-d (DD).  Knowing which type your detector uses helps you understand how to get the most out of it.  A concentric coil puts out a cone-shaped field (shaped like a O), the DD field is more like the "center slice" of the concentric (shaped like an I).
 
 

There are quite a few different types of metal detector hobbyists.  Seems the types of targets desired determine the types of detecting you do.  Naturally, where you live plays a huge part in determining which kind of detectorist you are.  Someone seeking colonial relics in Utah is going to have a pretty challenging and miserable experience!

What types of metal targets are out there to be found?  Coins, relics, jewelry and ores are what all immediately come to mind.  Ohioans are blessed with good opportunities to find three of the four.  Not many gold nuggets around here, though I have heard stories of some people panning for gold

 
 
I've just put the finishing touches on organizing the metal detecting club links on my website.  I created an entire list of defunct or clubs of unknown status.  As I was researching and composing, a million ideas flew through my head about detecting clubs so I thought I'd set a few down here in a bit of a ramble.

First idea is leadership.  Someone has to want to do it and inspire others to participate.  It takes time and commitment.  This is no small thing to ask for people who are trying find time to detect, hold down a job and have a home/family life.  So, besides a leader, there need to be some

 
 
This is a follow up to the question, “Are newer machines the key to older coins?" Online forum posters brought up operating frequencies and gold, so this addresses these two topics.

Looking at some online resources:  "Lower frequencies penetrate more deeply but higher frequencies are more sensitive to smaller targets." "Different metals respond better to different frequencies which is why all gold detectors run at 15 khz and up." "The lower the freq. such as 3 Khz will be sensitive in detecting copper and silver targets. Higher freq. such as 15 to 60 Khz will

 
 
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A silver coin showing hairline rub scratches.
A topic as old as the ages. Here's the simple statement that people read too late or don't believe. Cleaned old coins are 99% of the time worth LESS than uncleaned coins.

Let's do silver coins first, as this is where I see the most damage being done: If you find a silver coin (dated 1964 or earlier for most US coins) with your metal detector, with soil stuck on the surface of the coin, rubbing it in the field is as bad as cleaning it.  The soil is VERY abrasive and leaves hairline scratches, the same as many harsh cleaning methods.  Regardless of the condition of the coin, poor to mint state, soil rubbed across the surface will leave scratches that downgrade any potential value the coin may have.  Don't rub silver coins fresh from the ground.

So you're saying to yourself, so then, Mr. Smarty Pants, how do I get the dirt off this coin so I
 
 
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I am saddened by the demise of the local detector dealer.  The cheery faces shown beaming behind fully stocked multi-line counters in the old detecting books are gone.  Some now retired, some deceased, and for those left it's been harder and harder for them to make ends meet. 

All of us in the metal detecting community bear some of the blame for the end of the local shop. Manufacturers have squeezed the little guys, requiring larger minimums and greater sales volumes - offering greater discounts to mass merchandisers.  Consumers have been driven to the internet looking for the lowest price, and relying on online forums for information.

Let's take stock of what the local dealer offers us:
 
A Code of Honor 06/24/2009
 

The Federation of Metal Detecting and Archaeological Club (FMDAC) Code of Ethics can be found here: http://www.fmdac.org/about/codeofethics.htm

But beyond this, I feel there is a Code of Honor.  Honor is trustworthiness, one's character, and how one reflects honesty, respect, integrity and fairness.  This is more than a Code of Ethics.

I try to be an honorable metal detectorist.  I'm not perfect, but this is what honor means to me.  I always try to know the law.  I do not knowingly trespass or hunt sites without permission.  I respect locked gates and fences.

I honor my metal detecting friends by not hunting sites they have discovered or shared with me (public or private) without their knowledge or consent.  I try to teach and help others learn the hobby and pass along what I have learned.

I use the best retrieval techniques I can.  I try to dig neatly and leave little evidence I have metal detected a place.  I take my trash with me and fill my holes, even on the beach.  If I can do something simple to make it better than when I arrived, I will.

I am polite and courteous.  If I am asked to leave a site, I will do so without quarrel, even if I know I am doing no wrong.  If I have inadvertently trespassed, I apologize and do what I can to make things right.

Public perception is powerful.  If we are seen as looters, thieves, liars, grave robbers and trespassers we will lose access to the sites we depend on for our hobby.   Negative stereotypes, once formed are difficult to overcome.

Honorable detecting and good etiquette is what will make it possible for us to continue to enjoy our hobby.  Dishonorable detecting will close sites to all of us.  I urge you to do the best you can, be an honorable detectorist and a credit to the hobby.

 
 
YES!  If you are serious about finding old coins in hunted out sites the Minelab Explorer or E-Trac are what you need.  I've been detecting for 19 years, so I'm old school (though not as old as some) and new school.  My first machine was a White's Classic II.  I was swinging Fisher CZs for years and finding a few silver coins - maybe 10-20 per year.  Last year with the Explorer, I got 51 silver.  This year I have 127 silver coins in about 3 months of digging.  The majority of these are from the same sites I have been hitting for years.  

If you look at the people who are serious about silver and finding 100+ silver coins in hunted out